Our bus traveled along a canal on the west side of the Nile (all tombs and pyramids are on the west side of the Nile because that is where the sun sets and the afterlife begins). Trash everywhere. Also children, old people, dogs, hand-drawn ferries and boats across to the east side of the Nile, water buffaloes, trash fires, and donkey carts. Our journey took us to Sakkara where some early pyramids are located. The Step Pyramid is so named because its construction is a series of mastabas (table-like tombs) stacked upon one another to form a step effect. The entrance to the pyramid courtyard was historically and architecturally significant (as is this pyramid itself!) in that it is the first time stone was used in the columns and the ceiling of the hypostyle hall - the place of many columns leading to the pyramid courtyard. The columns are fashioned in the form of papyrus reeds as were used prior to this stone structure. The stone ceiling also was shaped as logs as were used previously. The closeness of the columns lead to the open courtyard in dramatic fashion. As we walked up the steps of the courtyard wall, we were treated to a stunning view of the valley and the Giza pyramids off in the distance. And we were treated to a camel ride by one of our tour mates ... the subject of much laughter and kidding throughout the rest of the tour as Mary's camel made it very clear that it was no more happy about the ride than she was! Alas the vendors here were very pushy, in our faces, desperate for a sale. Eventually we obliged and bought a composite cat statue in honor of our dearly departed Cleopatra (aka Patty Cat) and a scarab thrown in for good will (and an extra dollar) by the vendor.
Our next stop in Sakkara was the entrance to the pyramid tomb of King TiTi, the first king of the 6th dynasty (about 2300BC). We had the extraordinary experience of entering the actual pyramid (by bending low and walking carefully down the steeply slanted walkway) and observing the vast array of hieroglyphs for the first time. Extraordinary color remained in places and we recognized some of the words of the story told from the Book of the Dead to assist the pharoah into the afterlife.
Next we visited another tomb (probably of a judge in TiTi's dynasty) where the colors and hieroglyphs were even more extensive. We were quite fortunate that our guide had worked in this area years ago and was able to work with the guards to insure our successful visit. Outside the tomb we bought necklaces and bookmarks for special folks back home.
We turned from history and next stopped at a modern day carpet school and factory where we saw silk worms in action as well as children in school weaving patterns into carpets and masters weaving more complex patterns into larger pieces. While in the show room we waited as patiently as possible while many of our tour mates purchased carpets. We learned a difficult lesson in India where we purchased the perfect carpet only to get it home and have it be not so perfect: wrong color, wrong size, wrong return policy and therefore now being used in our unfinished basement. Therefore, no Egyptian carpets for us! The showroom itself was extraordinary as the collection of carpets on display surely represented thousands of hours of craftmanship ... truly beautiful to observe.
Lunch was next on the agenda and was at a beautiful tropical resort restaurant beside the pool. It was delicious but it took a long time!
Finally we left for the Giza Pyramids: Cheops (the largest), Chephren, and Mykerionos. Unfortunately a traffic jam slowed our progress and it was nearly sunset when we arrived at the pyramids. Their size was enormous; we had only a few minutes to take photos and no time to walk around the base and soak in the history ... probably my greatest disappointment of the entire trip. We moved on to an area with a beautiful panoramic view of the three pyramids and the city and even to the Step Pyramid and the Bent Pyramid beyond that. While several of our group took camel rides along the rocky boundary of the viewing area, we tried to enjoy the view and appreciate our time at the site.
From there we went to the Sphinx, that one solid rock carved with the body of a lion and the head of the pharoah. The keeper told us the site was closed for the day, but a few LE (Egyptian pounds) later, we were admitted and had the opportunity to take pictures (for an extra LE or 2) and really enjoyed the stop.
Dinner was on our own tonight so we stopped in the hotel bar and lounge for a drink ... Havana Club 7-year old dark rum - very thick and sweet and reminiscent of our week in Cuba in 2000 where we were introduced to this incredible drink. We've purchased it in London and Vancouver since but of course it is not imported to the US - regrettably! Dinner was appetizers from the bar/lounge. What an incredible day! We are so fortunate!
PS: The pyramids are from the Old Kingdom era of Egyptian history - approximately 2600BC. Eventually the intermediate period (between the Old Kingdom and the Middle Kingdom) saw lots of grave robbing so later pharoahs found alternative ways of preparing for the afterlife.
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