At 7:30AM we take the launch from the boat to Wadi El Sebona (Valley of the Lions). Here is a beautiful shoreline and sandy hills creating another stunning temple site for Ramses II! This one was built for Ramses II by the Nubians and therefore all the statues - including Ramses II - have Nubian aka African facial features! The statues are large - size counts for Ramses II - isn't that interesting?!! And the quality and proportion are not as good as the Old Kingdom statues. Much of the refinement of the Old Kingdon art has been lost by now (New Kingdom). However, the carvings and art inside the temple are much better, especially in the innermost chamber, the holy of holies. Outside leading to the entrance of the temple the path is lined on both sides with sphinxes with Ramses II heads and lion bodies (hence Valley of the Lions). Inside the temple we saw our first instances of the defacing of the temple figures - faces and feet - by Coptic Christians in the centuries following Roman Emperor Constantine's permission for Christians to enter the temples and use them for their own purposes. From this point forward during our tour, we found niches for Coptic worship relics and Coptic crosses carved into the columns and walls of the temples along with the defacing of the Egyptian figures.
Parenthetically, however, there also are historical instances in which subsequent pharoahs deface or carve out the references to previous pharoahs. This is particularly true of several female pharoahs who lived and ruled as pharaohs. Subsequent male pharoahs preferred not to have any reference to female pharoahs. This is interesting since any male who was not royal blood and therefore ineligible to be pharoah could become pharoah by marrying a female who was born to a royal father, in other words a pharoah's daughter.
Also interesting at this point was our guide's discussion of the Christian trinity and its possible roots in the Egyptian religions where diety were three-fold as well.
The walk to the Greek and Roman temples at this site looked long, so Harold decided to take his first camel ride. I declined (been there, done that in Rasjasthan!). He had a great time riding along with several others from our group. I followed on foot in hopes of getting a photo of the dismount, but I couldn't catch up with the camels after deciding rather late to try to get the photo! Anyway, this was another great opportunity for exercise as we walked and climbed the hills at this site prior to returning to the launch and to the boat.
At 10:30AM we had a most educational tour of the boat. The Captain led us through the suites and the royal suite along with the kitchen, the pilot house, and the engine room where three 750HP caterpiller engines made in the USA powered the boat! Otherwise all the boat was made in Egypt. The tour was followed by shopping in the boat's gift shop for gifts for Trisha and Kim plus a shirt for Harold with his name in a cartouche! After lunch we watched a video of how Abu Simbel was moved. And at tea time Harold gave a mini-lecture on American whiskey for a dozen or so tourmates who were interested (and thirsty).
This evening Vantage sponsored a cocktail party for us and many of our group shared wonderful stories from other Vantage tours ("memorable journeys") they had taken and we all enjoyed getting to know each other even more. After dinner Nubian musicians and dancers entertained us in the lounge. Very fun!
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